===
i had decided before i went to bed that the racist bus system was going to stop me from seeing the show, but i dreamt of the suspension bridge at iguazu falls and woke up invigorated by the prospect. i decided that i would go if i could find a truck stop close to the drop off point - which i did find. so, i dirtied myself up a little, grabbed my knapsack and hit the road....
they had the dogs out at customs to sniff some greyhound passengers. the ridiculousness of the drug war was really apparent, at that point. just the absurdity of it, you know. it's one thing to get kids to watch some infomercials in grade school, it's another to send the canine unit out under threat of a term in a cage. that's a game i don't play. it's a fool's game; your opponent is not rational, not swayed by discourse. it's another layer of the hyperreal, but to poke at the surreal and hope it vanishes is better left to thought experiment than real life....
i caught the bus outside a federal building (overheard statement by a passing bureaucrat: "we control the department of health"); it was an hour and a half before it dropped me a mile from the I-275, which is the highway that i've identified to be the segregation line between detroit and the surrounding suburbs. it did not take long for a three-piece family to pick me up, and drop me at the bus station.
the car was full of bernie supporters, who were intrigued and a little unsettled by the canadian health care system. you can imagine it's a big thing, right. see, but that's exactly what i picked up: that it *is* a big thing. and, that's exactly what i tried to get across. see, in canada we just take our coverage for granted. we don't ever have to worry about losing our insurance. it's never up for debate: it's universal. and, universal means universal. it took a few tries, but i think that eventually got across - and when it did, a very comfortable pause set in.
but, what about the taxes? don't i get tired of taxes for everything? i was in the middle of explaining that i've never made enough money to pay health care taxes when the car pulled in, i thanked them kindly and i headed for the bus stop.
the bus from ypsilanti to ann arbor was another hour up washtenaw road, pulling into a detour through the university of michigan campus and eventually stopping at the city's central bus station. the good news was that i beat the sunset; the bad news was that i had three hours to blow before the show started.
===
after poking around the area, and determining that almost everywhere i could go within the range of my mental compass would require a reservation, i stopped at a restaurant that's fancier than anywhere i'd normally go to to get a beer and something to eat. i wanted a burger, but had to settle for some kind of salsa poutine and a greek salad.
"would you like bread while you're waiting?"
"listen. i hitchhiked here. i don't want to spend a lot of.."
"...it's free."
"ok. great."
i'm not ashamed of my lower class upbringing, or afraid to put it on display. but, i was afraid that i'd get one of those famous tiny plates that you get at fancy restaurants. twenty dollars for a leaf of lettuce, right? and that'll be ten dollars for a side of dressing, please. but, in fact, the two plates, together, were a relatively large meal. and, it came to no more than the price of an expensive sub - or perhaps the price of a burger.
two beers later, and i was out to see the show. but, i'll make sure to do a little more research on places to wait, pre-show, if i ever go back to ann arbor.
===
i was there right at doors, so the line-up was fairly short. but, the door guy was very reluctant to accept my id.
"you're 35?"
"yeah."
a skeptical glance.
"you look good for 35."
"it runs in the family..."
i'm actually used to this. in fact, i've been told more than once that my id is fake and i'm not getting in - past the age of 30. but, this would have been a distance to travel to get bounced. he motions to his buddy...
"is this real id? nexus card?"
"is it from canada?"
"yeah."
"it's good."
i saw the guy repeatedly over the night, as i came in and out. the skepticism on his face was palpable: no way this kid is 35. i'm only 32! if this kid is 35....
but, this kid *is* 35. sorry, dude. it's true.
===
i take a look at the beer menu. $1.75? score.
"what is this rolling rock?"
"it's just a watery beer."
"well, i'm from canada. it'll feel like home. i'll go with that."
i need to carry a pocket drum machine with me.
the beer went down quick, so i was out into the smoking section within a few minutes, where i bumped into somebody willing to share - which was useful for the first act.
====
mind over mirrors were a synthesizer act with an unusual light show. they played on the floor, surrounded by this bright, glowing orb. this gave it the feel of some kind of ritual. on the one hand. it was a lot of overdone tropes, right - the spiritual indigenous european thing, trying to bring out your inner druid by ripping on the froese brothers. on the other hand, this was exceptionally well put together in terms of the space it covered in the spectrum, if not in terms of melodic complexity. i happened to be stuck in front of somebody that wasn't enjoying it, and the argument was apparent - there were no melodies, and minimal percussion. it was just sound. but, when you get enough bass out of the speakers to make it feel like the walls are going to cave in? you're accomplishing something. but, it's something that you utterly have to *feel* in order to understand. so, footage of the show would be entirely pointless. this is experiential, and recommended if you get the chance, but i will reiterate that my detour into the smoking section was pretty fundamental in my enjoyment of the set.
this set is similar to what i saw:
tortoise did not need to clear the stage, so they started almost immediately; i barely had time to get a beer. how was the show? really?
i have to admit that the last tortoise record that i really sunk into was standards. i found that the 2004 record was very much following in the footsteps of do make say think, but without the tension - it lacked a concept of grit, and kind of floated by. i did listen to the 2009 disc for a few weeks when it came out, but got bored with it almost immediately and never went back to it - the truth is that it just couldn't compete for space in my mp3 player. and, i was walking into the show without having heard much of their new record at all. but, i am very much familiar with their three classic records - and was hoping to see a lot more material from them.
the truth is that i should have known better. it's largely a question of who the guitarist was. the magic on millions and tnt was all pajo; at this stage, the differences in style between pajo and parker are really absolutely apparent and it's obvious who did what. so, it's not really fair to anybody to show up to a tortoise show in 2016 with jeff parker on guitar and expect them to run through twenty year-old material that somebody else wrote. i should have thought that through a little more closely.
i can't claim the same familiarity with their newer material, but it's....it's not written at the same level. see, that's the thing: if it was, i'd have the same familiarity. it's not due to lack of exposure. some of the stuff on beacons came back to me when they played it, but even so it was kind of fuzzy.
which is not to say it wasn't enjoyable. the display of drum wizardry, itself, was worth the price of admission! and, they played a handful of older tunes, too. it's just that it's not the same thing - because it's not the same band. and, one should have reasonable and realistic expectations when going to see tortoise with their current lineup in 2016. i need to point the finger at myself in walking in with unrealistic expectations.
so, it's still tortoise. it's still a good show. but, be reasonable about what you're expecting.
i'm disappointed in the lack of footage online from the show, but this is a decent representation:
i found myself in an overnight diner until 8:00 am, due to the late night saturday morning bus service. diners are always entertaining if you have the right approach to them: you get drunks & cokeheads battling it out with saucy waitresses that expect to be tipped in inverse proportion to their attitudes, and usually are. there's always some narrative to follow. they were good about coffee, there, which is about all i ask for. although i managed a free breakfast from somebody, too.
he walked over towards me..
"i'm going to buy you breakfast."
"no, i'm ok. i know i'm sorting through change, but my bank card doesn't work here so i only have what i brought with me."
"no, i'm buying you breakfast."
"but, it's not..."
"i'm buying you breakast."
*pause*
the waitress asks me what i want. i get a special. he's gone before i can pay for it...
"he didn't actually buy me breakfast did he?"
"yup."
"i don't look that bad do i?"
"no. you actually look pretty good. i think that's *why* he bought you breakfast, if you see what i mean."
"but i told him over and over. if that's true, it's kind of invasive. i mean, it's non-consensual. i...i should just be quiet, right. say thank you and forget about it."
"yup. just be like: thanks weird dude..."
"i think it's gotta be more about him. after i tell him, like, five times - that's not about me. that's salvation through works, or something. it's just that there are people who actually can't get breakfast. people that would actually benefit. i'm just stuck here overnight. i just spent money on food and concert tickets and beer...you know..."
"you should just say thank you."
"yeah. i should."
the sun was shining brightly when i left, although the temperature was a little chilly.
===
the ride back was a struggle to keep my eyes open, and i *did* nod off a few times before i got to the end of the aata route, and started walking up michigan.
it was literally the moment that i put my thumb out that somebody slowed down and picked me up - as though he'd been waiting for me. or perhaps waiting for somebody to be waiting to get picked up, anyways.
it was an older guy, in what i guess was his fifties. he claimed he'd been up all night, and he was definitely a little bit drunk - but he was also obviously harmless. he had stories about wild nights in his youth at the bar i'd been to, and seemed a little surprised when i told him the band sounded a little like king crimson - as though he wished he was there. it was a short ride up to the mcdonalds on the other side of the freeway, a quick thank you and a brisk walk away. if i set off any flashbacks, i hope they were positive memories, on the whole.
the bus ride back was non-eventful. and, i did eventually make it home safely - and then slept for a full 24 hours.
this is the vlog for the day:
http://dghjdfsghkrdghdgja.appspot.com/categories/shows/2016/03/11.html
